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Yesterday we marked the second month since our arrival in South Africa. In some ways it seems like no time has passed, but in others it feels much longer.

The days have passed in whirl of activity, but at least the time is now mostly productively spent, since we’re not driving back and forth to Joburg every other day. And with each passing day, Kosmos becomes home …

Living permanently in Kosmos has meant that we can get to know the local area. We (okay, I) know the local shopping mall very well, we’re getting acquainted with watering holes and restaurants, and we’ve already picked some favourites.

We’re really fortunate to have a basic, but good, watering hole almost on our doorstep, and right on the Hartbeespoort Dam. Our marina bar serves a darn fine curry, and the views are fabulous.

We’re coming to appreciate the quirks of the area …

And it’s wonderful to catch up with family and friends for meals and visits!

One of the most momentous events of the past two months occurred on 16 April 2025 … Our main move from Australia arrived!!

On a day that looked like this …

Despite our communicating the logistical complications of a move to our Kosmos home on several occasions, the moving company failed to take into account the narrowness of Kosmos’ streets, and the steepness (and bends) of our driveway. The result? A shuttle truck that was too big to get to us.

In the end – and after a delay of several hours – they managed to get a bakkie (ute) to do the shuttling, and our stuff started to arrive.

It took the better part of two days of driving back and forth to the large truck at the Kosmos gate, much trudging through mud, and more than a few scary moments when boxes and crates were almost dropped, but by the night of 17 April, we had the contents of the 40ft container delivered at 134 Paul Kruger Avenue.

And everything that didn’t …

The house is slowly starting to look like our home, and every day sees us unearthing treasures.

I’ve come the conclusion that I have way too much clothing and too many shoes, but I also know that I’m not going to stop collecting beautiful things, so I’m okay with that.

We’ve had our first guests eat at our very own table, while sitting on the chairs that Urbain made with such care.

The office is functioning as it should, albeit still a tad untidy!

We’re making peace with the resident goggas (bugs).

And we get to live here …!

A remarkable corner of Johannesburg

On the very fringe of the Joburg CBD sits the suburb of Lorentzville. It’s flanked by Berea and Kensington, and to say that it’s not exactly salubrious, is a serious understatement. And that’s what makes the Victoria Yards development even more special …

Victoria Yards, originally established in 1913 as the “New York Steam Laundry”, has undergone a remarkable transformation. Initially serving hospitals and institutions, in the 1990s the development housed garment makers and small businesses.

In 2015, the site was reimagined by entrepreneur, Brian Green, as a vibrant hub that blends art, entrepreneurship, and social impact.

Have a look at some of the amazing before and after shots on the Victoria Yards website: https://www.victoriayards.co.za/before/after

Emphasising community upliftment, urban farming, and local art and craft, Victoria Yards now brings together artists, artisans, and creative enterprises in a unique ecosystem. The development prioritises sustainability, inclusivity, and regeneration, turning a once-industrial site into a thriving space for cultural and economic collaboration in Johannesburg’s inner city.

I first visited Victoria Yards in 2019. Still in the early stages of development, I was struck even then by the impact this precinct was having on the surrounding community.

Six years later and this special place has grown into a green oasis, with fruit and vegetables, flowers and all manner of green things in every nook and cranny. Butterflies, bees and birds abound, and enough produce is grown to sustain a monthly farmers’ market.

The number of tenants has grown and now social enterprises, artists, artisans and restaurants share resources and knowledge, and present unique offerings to visitors.

Victoria Yards in more than just a funky development, it’s part of a community. And that community is underprivileged and facing severe challenges.

And here too Victoria Yards in making a difference, offering workshops and classes to members of the local community. Resident artists and artisans share their knowledge and skills, and these tenants can in turn avail themselves of business workshops and the like.

But the greatest positive impact is on the youth from the surrounding suburbs. Many of these young people live in horrendous circumstances, but here they are offered a safe haven and a place to learn and grow. Through the extraordinary, “Safe Study”, kids of all ages can come after school and on Saturday mornings to learn new skills, hang out, and have fun in a safe, nurturing environment. They learn to sew and crochet, play chess, and even skateboard. And they make beautiful music!

I can’t wait for our next visit, when we’ll buy produce, eat fabulous food, and listen to sweet jazz played by the Safe Study kids.

Much has happened over the past two or so weeks. We’ve experienced highs and lows, but overall we’re content and grateful for so many things.

My brand new stove was finally connected, and it was a real thrill to cook my first meal in our home (a simple, but delicious omelette).

Spending long days working in the house led to us needing to stay over on some nights, even with just basic necessities. Of course, sleeping in the house meant tranquil evenings, and majestic African sunrises.

We finally managed to become friends with the Dept of Home Affairs! It involved a trip to Pretoria and then to Cullinan (yip, where the famous diamond was mined, and where they dig those gemstones out of the ground to this day).

Friendly, sensible advice in Pretoria had us heading to Cullinan where we had our i.d. photos taken against the white wall of a KFC drive through (!), and then completing forms and having fingerprints taken for our new i.d. books (that should be available in around eight weeks).

A major milestone was reached when we finally moved into our home. With our first container from Australia not yet here, we have very little furniture, but we have everything we need for now. And being HOME is wonderful!

It has allowed us to have family over for meals …

And now that we’re not spending time driving back and forth between Joburg and Kosmos, we have time to explore our new neighbourhood, where the imposing Magaliesberg is ever-present.

We’ve also coped with some (more than usual) upheaval. I had a serious accident that pretty much wrecked our brand new Suzuki XL6. I have no recollection of what happened and how, but I ended up driving into (and over) a traffic light and then hitting a pole. My first memory was of the airbags deploying.

The car did its job of protecting me! Apart from being badly shaken and a little banged up (seatbelts cause bruises!), I walked away essentially unscathed. I realise how much worse this could have been and I’m truly grateful for the Guardian Angel that was very much on the job. I was also reminded again of just how wonderful people actually are; bystanders came to help, passing security guards wouldn’t leave my side, paramedics driving by stopped to check up on me, and the police were kind and reassuring. And as for my wonderful man who rushed from a meeting on the other side of the city and just unconditionally supported and love me … I couldn’t ask for better.

Life, with all its highs and lows, is precious. Let’s never forget to treasure every moment.

Part 2

In an earlier post I shared some of the things about South Africa that make my heart sing. As I sit here listening to the birds sing after an afternoon thunderstorm, I’m reminded of a few more …

I love how cell (mobile) phone towers are disguised to look like giant trees …

Wherever you go in South Africa – from big cities to the country, you’ll see women carrying loads on their heads. Little girls learn this skill from the tie they take their first steps, and old women carry things in this way until the end of their lives. The grace and poise with which they do this, is one of the things I love about this place.

And while on the subject of women carrying loads … Seeing a woman carrying the precious load that is her baby (or someone else’s) on her back, always warms my heart.

Much is written about sustainable building materials and methods. In South Africa, sustainable buildings have been constructed for centuries; from mud and reed huts, to traditional Cape Dutch houses. One of the most sustainable materials – and one we happen to love – is thatch. We’re privileged and delighted to live in a thatch roof house, and in our surrounding area, thatching grass grows wild along the road verges and in the fields. People harvest this material and use it to roof their own homes, and trades people use it to build and maintain the roofs of people like us.

All South Africans have a love/hate relationship with the bronze-feathered, hooked-beaked hadeda (Bostrychia hagedash). Personally, I love this 5am flying-over-the-roof alarm clock!

And I love Stephen Francis and Rico Schacherl’s “Madam and Eve”, whose gogo (grandmother) definitely has a hate/hate relationship with our feathered friend!

I’m sitting on the stoep (terrace) of our Kosmos house, drinking in the late afternoon light. While I write, the loeries are having their customary before bed bath.

Much has happened over the past fortnight, and the man and I lurch from elation to exhaustion as we drive back and forth between Johannesburg and Kosmos. Joburg days are spent working (yes, we do need to earn a crust), and then spending the money we earn as we acquire all the necessities of a new life.

When we’re in Kosmos, it’s to work. We engaged ace tiler, Edwin, to tackle the job of replacing the hard floors, and carpeters will soon transform the bedrooms, but we’ve been constantly busy cleaning, fixing things, sorting out stuff, etc. We also spend loads of time waiting for deliveries and tradies to quote on things like reclaiming the pool from the mud bath that turned it into a cesspit.

We’re really thrilled with the tiles. What was a tacky vinyl wood floor is now slate-like tiles, made right here in South Africa! Edwin did an amazing job of finding the one straight wall in the house and then following that line from one end of the property to the other.

The finished product …

Of course, it hasn’t just been floors! We took ownership of our second car …

We’ve spent precious time with family and friends …

We’ve eaten fabulous meals …

We have a new appreciation for African sunsets …

And we’ve acquired beds, appliances and a TV! Before we know it, we’ll be living in Kosmos fulltime!

Part 1

Since making public our decision to return to South Africa, the question “Why?” has been asked by almost every person we encountered. Our reasons, of course, are manifold and our own, and we feel no need to justify our decision. There are, however, so many things about this complex, challenging land that make it the land of my heart. In the coming days, weeks and months, I’ll share some of these.

As I write this, I’m listening to Paul Simon’s “Graceland”, which featured a panoply of South African musicians. And that brings me to one of the things I love most about this place: the music! Music is everywhere in South Africa; people sing when they’re happy, they sing when they’re sad, they sing to mark great occasions, and day-to-day ones. Here, people even protest in song. (Hello, toyi toyi!) From truly remarkable professional musicians to ordinary people, the music is exceptional.

As one drives around Johannesburg, it’s impossible not to see the “Reclaimers“, pulling their heavy carts through the traffic. Since there is no official sorting of rubbish into general waste and recyclables in this city, these self-appointed recyclers sift through rubbish bins and sort out all the recyclable plastic, which they then trade for cash. It’s tough, thankless work, but it’s a living. And these (mostly) men help to control plastic waste in the city. Want to know more, watch this short doco: https://youtu.be/9jiFwq0kEN0?si=PUlxKQhbnNfkuQw8

As autumn settles in over the South African countryside, the cosmos blooms along roadsides and in fields across the country. Since I was a very small child, I’ve loved these delicate pink and white blooms that wilt as soon as they’re picked. I know this, because I always made my mother stop to pick me bunches, only to have them sad and limp by the time we got back to the car. I loved them then, and I love them now. And they’re in bloom everywhere right now!

A ubiquitous scene (and sound) in Johannesburg is that of the mielie (ears of corn)ladies, plying their wares from street to street, sometimes carried in baskets and bags on their heads, and sometimes in shopping trolleys. And all the while they cry, “Green mielies! Sweet green mielies!” This is the sound of my childhood, and my (now) adulthood. These women inspire awe through their sheer dedication to earning a basic living, often for decades on end in a particular suburb.

More to come …!

We arrived in a city in the throes of that old thorn in everyone’s side – loadshedding! That should have prepared us for the days and weeks to come, but we rather naively thought we’d more easily navigate the challenges of beginning again in the land of our birth. Of course, just like the magnificent Joburg thunderstorms that raged in our first days, our initial interactions were a bit stormier.

What does it take to build a life in a new country? In South Africa it starts with a great deal of standing in queues and sitting in banking halls. And hours on the phone.

We still haven’t had much luck with Home Affairs, so identity documents are not yet forthcoming, but we have managed to open bank accounts, get insurance, and get local mobile numbers. We’ve also learned lessons in patience, humility and gratitude – patience with systems that are painfully beaurocratic, humbled by people who try hard with little support, and gratitude for getting even the smallest win. Oh, and I didn’t physically attack even one person!

We bought two vehicles (one of which is still to be delivered).

And – with great excitement – we got the keys to our new home, an experience we shared with our dear friend Derrich. Incidentally, we’re also staying in Derrich’s apartment while our house is being renovated and our containers are on the water.

Initially we thought we might have to wait until as late as end May to gain access to our house, since it was tenanted until then. (For those who don’t know, in South Africa, tenancy trumps purchase or, “huur gaat voor koop”.) From end May we got a commitment to vacate on 15 March, so we were thrilled when our tenant actually vacated on 28 February, allowing us to start renovations much sooner.

When we made the decision to move to South Africa, we were adamant that the home we live in should be distinctly African, and we believe our Kosmos home meets that requirement. This house can be nowhere else!

We’re looking forward to entertaining loads of friends and family in this home in the weeks, months and years to come. And hopefully our loved ones from Australia will visit. The guest suite is waiting ..!

We were born in South Africa. We lived in South Africa until our early 30s. 28 years in Australia and these African Aussies are having to learn about Africa all over again!

We very quickly learned some valuable, albeit frustrating, lessons: the Department of Home Affairs is not your friend, banks maintain a policy of “take a ticket” and you better have a packed lunch, restaurants and cafes – even with one waiter for every table – offer painfully slow service.

And then there are the mysterious, unwritten rules that somehow keep things moving … Traffic lights hardly ever work, and when they do, most people ignore them. However, four-way (or three-way, or six-way) stops are honoured by everyone, even mini-bus taxi drivers. And self-appointed traffic directors who have absolutely no authority, are obeyed by everyone!

Not had time to do your shopping? Not a problem – you can buy literally anything at a (working or non-working) traffic light! From goods to services like having your tyres changed – it’s all on offer.

Visiting a hardware store delivers a wealth of expertise, with every kind of tradie available right there in the parking lot!

Joburg, what a treasure you are!

Months of preparation, planning and contemplation culminated in our Melbourne home being packed up and readied for shipment to South Africa. There’s something gut-wrenching about seeing a life reduced to one 40ft container (+ a second 20ft, as it turned out).

We waved our earthly possessions farewell on 07 February, and then officially became homeless.

Our temporary home quickly dispelled all thoughts of being anchorless because we found ourselves in the tranquil surrounds of Research, where dear friend, Dewetia, (and Zara the dog) made our transition as smooth as possible.

Packing up a life is physically tough, but farewelling those dear to us was emotionally devastating. Logically we knew that we would in all probability see our Australian friends and family again, but logic rarely applies in these situations. In our final days in Melbourne we spent hours talking to the people we care about, we drank many glasses of wine, laughed a great deal, and – in the words of the song – we also shed some salty tears.

24 February 2025 – we boarded that proverbial jet plane and winged our way to Johannesburg. Sadness was tempered by sheer relief that we were finally on our way. Excitement would come later …

And on the afternoon of the same day – a tad the worse for wear – we were met at O.R. Tambo International by cousins Harry and Margie. (A huge surprise!) Our African life was about to begin.